Entertainment For Lively Minds
Roman holiday
Posted by Steve Hill on 16 June 2010 - 6:19pm.
I'm taking my step-daughter to Rome for a holiday on Friday, never been there before, any tips? I'm thinking of good restaurants, friendly bar (to watch the Italy vs New Zealand game) and (ahem) and decent record shops. Any tips on how not to get ripped off would be appreciated as well. Ta massive chaps and chapesses.
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Beware the taxi drivers
Agree a fare up front if you are travelling anywhere that isn't locally controlled like Airport transfers or go with directions of where you want to go from the AA website which will give you A to B directions in Europe.
I have been to Rome and was really ripped off twice by their cabbies who took me round the houses to extend the journey and fare.
In Italy
If you have a drink at the bar, inside, you will play the standard rate as per the price list on the wall, as this is set by law, so if you fancy a quick tincture this is as safe as anything, and what the locals do. Most of the time this will be true at a table or outside too. However if you are in a main square, with a view, you might more for a table inside, more again for an outside table, especially if it has dickie-bowed staff, and seriously more again if to be outside at , say, St Mark's Square in Venice.
Having said that, most are not like that. We did OK in Rome, mainly because we established the price at the outset, especially if we were going somewhere a bit more glam. In the bars and cafes at Campo de' Fiore and beside The Pantheon we had no bother.
I would watch out for the ice cream parlours, the type you find in the crowded square, and by that I mean the one in Piazza Navona. Decide what you want and be precise. If you have any Italian language this is definitely the time to deploy it, because if you just walk up and in an airy-fairy way ask for two ice-creams you will emerge with two huge objects at a tenner apiece. Marvellous, but possibly not what you really wanted. Fortunately the Italians have a system in coffee shops and ice cream parlours and the like, where there is a small desk, usually manned by a stern lady of a certain age, and though puzzling at first, actually this system is your friend. You tell her what you want (the price list is more likely to be at that end too), pay her and she will give you a small ticket. You hand this over at the food end of the premises and tell them what you want. Since you have paid already you will get what you aimed for, and less likely to emerge bemused and baffled and and with a lighter wallet. (Do try the nocciola/hazelnut. Bliss... )
Not great for record shops. The big chain is Ricordi which has a few places, notably on Via Corso, which the main drag between the main railway station and the Vatican (served by the 42 bus : watch out for the bottom-gropers), but CDs are not cheap generally. News stands are worth a look but they usually have opera sets with magazines, or DVDs mainly in Italian only. Otherwise you might find the odd stall on a street market. There is a huge market at Trastavere which is terrific (though watch your handbag, as ever in markets) but even that is not great for music. The Time Out book is usually the best guide for this sort of thing.
I would imagine that for Italy v New Zealand most bars would be pretty friendly and welcoming. When I was in Florence and Venice during the 2006 World Cup they were surprisingly indifferent, but maybe the tourist drags are different, but I think Rome is more of a football town. There is an Aussie bar in Rome, though whether that is the place for New Zealand supporters is debateable. And anyway, why go to Italy and support the opposition ?
Lastly, again, if any of you do have any Italian, do try to use it. Their English will usually be better than your Italian, but they really do appreciate the effort, even if it is only Good Morning, Please and Thank You, preferably with a big smile. Plus the younger ones will know English but this is less true of the older ones. If you do stick with the Sullen Brit Abroad schtick, they can get a bit grumpy, and who can blame them ??!?
But Rome is a great city. I do hope you have a wonderful time.
It's wonderful - but watch for pickpockets on the tube
Be VERY suspicious of any unexpected physical contact. I got done whilst simply pushing past the blighter to get off the train. That's the downside. Upside - this is my all time favorite European City, I'm jealous! If you're planning to get a guide, get the DK 'Top 10'. Don't try and get in the Vatican on Sunday morning. Go to the ice cream shop to the right of the Parthenon (facing the door). The Parthenon is awsome, as is the Colosseam, but the most magical moment of all is approaching the Trevi Fountain through the narrow streets. A guy proposed to his girlfriend whilst we were there, to the delight of a cheering crowd. Finally, crossing the road - it seems to be impossible, but step on to a crossing and it's like the parting of the Red Sea. Enjoy it!
Pedant here...
I'm sure you meant the Pantheon?
Speaking of romance, on our Italian honeymoon we were fortunate to witness a Roman wedding party walking down the streets near the Trevi Fountain, dressed as only the Italians can dress...it was a magical moment
Doh! Yes
Be very wary of moving mopeds on pavements...
I had to jump into an alleyway to avoid two lunatics driving Vespas side by side at great speed who had decided that the roads were not for them.
Also be careful around Roma Termini station... I had an unpleasant experience there when a skinhead nazi type started screaming at me in Italian and someone else stole my rucksack while I was distracted.
But more than anything just enjoy yourself... Rome is a fabulous city.
A very useful language tip: if you want to buy something, try saying "Può farmi uno sconto?", which means "Can you give me a discount?" It is surprising how often the vendor will do just that.
More on public transport
Like so much of Europe you buy tickets beforehand (potentially in tobacconists...) and you punch the ticket before you go the train or as soon as you go on the bus. Do. There are indeed inspectors and they are fierce. For a quiet life it may be wise to seek out some sort of pass if you going to be jumping about. However Rome is mostly very walkable, so this is probably only an idea if you are staying in one of the hotels near the railway (the railway station is indeed, like main railway stations all over the world, dodgy) and so will be heading back and to on a regular basis.
My favourite city
Campo di Fiori is good for bars, Trastevere district for atmospheric restaurants.
If you go to the Coloseum (and you've got to really, haven't you?) see the Palatine Hill as well; entry is included in the Coloseum ticket.
For a more gruesome experience try the Cappucin cemetery in Santa Maria della Concezione - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_Crypt
A smile and a friendly 'bon giorno', or 'buona sera' in the evening, goes a long way with shop staff and waiting staff.
For ice cream try Gioliti, behind Piazza Colonna (a tip - you pay at the front desk then take your receipt to the counter) - http://www.giolitti.it/english/home.html
Visit the
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. It has an amazing collection and hardly anyone visits. In a crowded and bustling city we had the place almost to ourselves.
Check
It has the painting of Pope Innocent X by Velasquez which is my favourite painting in the whole wide world. Though it is a small room to itself, and was better displayed in the National Gallery about 20 years when it was on display right down the end so you walked towards it as if to the man himself, and he stared you down so that you heard this voice in your head telling you "I don't care if you have a headache and a bad mood, I'm the Pope !".
Or maybe that was just me. I am a recovering catholic.
Went in 2006
Can't really recall the names of bars/eateries I'm afraid, but it's a fantastic place to visit. I recommend going in the Colosseam, the Vatican and checking out the view of the sun going down from the Spanish Steps. Obvious stuff really, just strolling around you'll find the rest, there is something to see everywhere.
Definately be super-wary of the traffic, it's insane. No give-way lines that I could see, it just looked like a free-for-all!
when crossing the road
go for it