Entertainment For Lively Minds
Edinburgh?
Posted by Mark Godden on 3 April 2011 - 8:28am.
My GLW has recently had a Significant Birthday and we are spending next weekend in Edinburgh. Where should we go? What should we see? Where should we eat and drink?
She's not interested in record shops. We usually enjoy a mixture of scenery, parks, history, 'culture' and eating.
I would greatly value the Massive's advice.
Thanks
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Where should we go?
Glasgow
Well
As someone who has lived in both I'd agree, but there are some very very good things in Edinburgh.
Some of my faves would be:
- the modern art gallery (about a mile or so from the city centre with nice cafe, and good sculpture in the grounds)
- Valvona and Corolla on Leith Walk, really nice Italian deli and cafe (there is also now a more bistro style place beside Harvey Nicks)
- for parks, the Botanic Gardens are usually good
- pubs - the cafre royal, if just for the granduer (http://www.caferoyal.org.uk/contactus.htm).
Enjoy.
The Cafe Royal
Britain's, nay the world's, finest boozer.
Seconded
And try the oysters!
Food..
FPO & I went a couple of years ago & sample these two places - I'd recommend them both:-
www.dusit.co.uk
www.wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk
Hope you have a good time
The Edinburgh Vaults
http://www.partner.viator.com/en/7620/tours/Edinburgh/Edinburgh-Vaults-W...
Really interesting and unusual.
Restaurant - Ondine - extremely good
I've worked up there on and off for years its a great city and the people have a hilarious dry humour
Dinner or lunch..
..at The Witchery. Sounds weird I know, but it's great, (situated just at the foot of the Castle too, so you can work up an appetite by yomping up there).
http://www.thewitchery.com/
late post-theatre supper at Witchery also a hoot
v romantic (10.30pm-11.30pm, £14.95) (although it's easy to screw up the apparent economy by spending serious money on a bottle of wine)
Walk up Arthur's Seat!
No city I've been to has a mountain quite like that in the middle.
I will shout out for Vincafe as well. It's own by the Valvona and Corolla people and is completely splendid.
Sandy Bell's usually has a folk music session going on. Well worth a pub visit.
Namaste is a great curry place next to Sandy Bell's.
As for history just walk around the alleyways of the old town. Or visit Mary King's Close. That is brilliant.
Living here...
... I could blether on indefinitely, but I'll confine myself to a few foodie things that might not otherwise be obvious:
Breakfast in Leith: Roseleaf
http://roseleaf.co.uk/Default.htm
Italian wine hidden away in the Old Town (under George IV Bridge): Divino Enoteca
http://www.divinoedinburgh.com/
Fine Chinese dumplings in a place that often doesn't attract a second glance: Chop Chop (the Morrison Street original, not the new one in Leith)
http://www.chop-chop.co.uk/
Spending big money on very inventive Michelin star food: 21212
http://www.21212restaurant.co.uk/
Good fish & chips: Tail End, Albert Place, Leith Walk
http://www.tailendfishbar.co.uk/
I agree
with a lot of Glenbervie's points. Good places all.
As stated elsewhere, the Cafe Royal has to be visited. I love it.
The City Art Centre is at the back of Waverley Station and is usually good for a browse. http://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/Venues/City-Art-Centre.aspx
For a cheap music night out with local bands featured, Whistlebinkies covers lots of age categories.
Website at http://www.whistlebinkies.com/gigs/
(Missing Cat playing next Friday- young guys making a good stab at the blues.)
If you were coming today you could always have taken in the local derby- Hibs v Hearts, which I am now off to watch! GGTTH!!
Good luck- you'll love the place- if you're in the city centre, most places are walkable and there's always a good bar or restaurant within a few minutes of each other.
A few more suggestions...
Additional scenery suggestions: There's a classic view of the city from the top of Calton Hill (although Arthur's Seat is also well worth the effort). The various cemeteries around Edinburgh are pretty mental, especially Calton Old Burial Ground (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Calton_Cemetery) just below Calton Hill and Warriston (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warriston_Cemetery).
If you've read any of Ian Rankin's Rebus books, go to the Oxford Bar (http://www.oxfordbar.com/) on Young Street for a beer.
I'd second the Gallery of Modern Art (good Jeff Koons show at the moment), and suggest the National Gallery on the Mound too (we always visit the Three Graces when we're in town - my daughters love them...). The private galleries on Dundas Street are worth looking at too.
The local event's magazine is http://www.list.co.uk/events/.
I'd suggest you avoid any part of the North side of Princes Street - the south side is much better and you can spot section of the crazy first floor walk way plan dreamt up in the 1960s; Rose Street is still v touristy; the Grass Market is stag and hen central; and the High Street is best seen first thing in the morning before the tourist buses arrive.
Finally, if you've never been to Edinburgh or Scotland (you imply this in your question), visit the Museum Of Scotland (http://www.nms.ac.uk/our_museums/national_museum.aspx) for an overview - free and interesting with more good views from the roof.
Have fun...
I'd add
The Childhood Museum on The Mile (free)
oh yes -
about 20 years after visiting that, me and the ex-wife would still talk about it from time to time. It was the shoe with a face drawn on it to turn it into a dolly for a poor pre war child. Heartwrenching.
If you get decent weather..
..hop on a city tour bus. Beware as there are 3 or 4 different routes. The City Centre tour bus is really good and costs about £11. It goes from about 10am to 7pm, about evert 20 minutes and you can get on and off all day as often as you like. Try to get one with a live commentator rather than just the tour guide tape with headphones.
If nothing else, it'll let you know where all the main attractions are eg National Museum, Castle, Scottish Parliament, Royal Mile, Princes St gardens, Scott Monument, Calton Hill, Arthur's Seat etc etc. I think it lasts about an hour.
Mary Kings Close is excellent if you have a decent imagination and the tour guides are very entertaining.
Scottish Parliament is free entry but you have to book...may not be open at weekends.
Tour bus and Mary King's Close info can be found online. Don't book online because if you miss your time you've lost your money...they're not all that busy this time of year.
Fopp is in Rose St(which runs parallel with Princes St)and opposite Fopp's entrance is a big Marks and Spencer and another huge store, the name of which escapes me, so you and your other half can go your seperate ways for an hour if you want.
Edinburgh - This is spooky.
Myself and GLW have just booked a w/e in Edinburgh in May again to celebrate a special birthday.
About to request recommendations from the Massive when I came across Mark's thread.
Again like Mark appreciate the recommendations of the Massive.
I would however much appreciate recommendations on where to go to get that special Massive friendy CD or Boxset.
Also, appreciate recommendations on book stores.
Avalanche Records
You'll find it in the Grassmarket. Also Fopp in Rose Street opposite the rear entrance of Jenner's department store.
Rosslyn Chapel
in Dalkeith , just a few miles south of Edinburgh, is well worth a visit
not to be a pedant, but...
... in case of people getting lost, Rosslyn Chapel is in the village of Roslin, around halfway between Penicuik and Dalkeith, south of Edinburgh ...(not actually *in* Dalkeith) .. fascinating wee place though
http://www.rosslynchapel.org.uk/
definitely second
the cafe royal and The Dogs is a great place to eat 110 Hanover Street
and the Collective and the Fruitmarket for that modern art stuff if that's what pulls the daisy
My friend Matt's fossil shop
He's a lovely guy, and really knows his trilobites.
http://www.mrwoodsfossils.co.uk/
excellent row of shops that
if Mrs Godden from the OP is interested in second hand/vintage clothes, then Armstrong's is a couple of doors along, also an interesting hat shop (Fabhatrix) ... if she prefers sci-fi then there's a specialist sci-fi bookshop (Transreal Fiction) ... THEN head over the street and in the West Bow, as you go up towards Victoria Street, you find the Bow Bar which is the best whisky bar in the city ... (many rare and expensive single malts) ...
Oh yes,
and there's a great guitar shop at the other end of the Grassmarket, which I dawdled in for a happy while a few months ago. Fine range of Martins if I remember rightly (I concede that not all GLWs find this as fascinating as I do, but thought it worth a mention)
Oh, Oh
I was going to say the Bow Bar but I forgot. Too busst prattling on about Portobello.
Eat
at The Outsider
Take out a bankloan
And eat at Restaurant Martin Wishart in Leith.
Recover by taking a walk along the Water Of Leith.
Walk. Walk everywhere. Drink in the scenery, the atmosphere.
Watch The Illusionist. A visual poem about the joys of Edinburgh.
if walking along the Water of Leith...
... try to spot the Gormley sculptures
http://www.nationalgalleries.org/aboutus/project/1:167/8496
PS: other non-obvious point for non natives ... Edinburgh's modest "urban river" is called the Water of Leith and flows through the city, meeting the sea at Leith, where the docks are ... it's certainly not like Glasgow/the Clyde, London/the Thames, but the Water of Leith has its moments ... a nice stretch is from Stockbridge upstream to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glenbervie/5474477313/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glenbervie/5483278755/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glenbervie/5483878252/in/photostream/
I was going to suggest a Hibs game at Easter Road
But based on recent performances, perhaps not.
I'm a local so I know best
To be honest the suggestions your recieved from others are pretty much spot on.
If the sun is shining (sometimes happens) jump on a number 44 to Portobello (Edinburgh's seaside). In generations gone by it was a holiday destination. It's still a nice prom - lots of dog walkers, joggers, kids learning to ride bikes. There are a couple of pubs - both good - but I prefer the Dalriada at the the Joppa end. Does good beers, light bites and acoustic music. The other one (the Espy) is more foody. The cafe is the Beach house and I only saw John Byrne enjoying a coffee there a couple of weeks ago.
All visitors rave about the Cafe Royal and I can understand why. My experience of it, however, isn't so great. I worked behind the bar there when I was a student in the early/mid 90s. As its a circle bar there was nowhere to "escape" for a smoke - we weren't allowed on the other side of the bar. I never cared much for the regulars either - a lot of insurance company office time were prone to disrespect the mainly student bar staff. Maybe it's changed now but I recommend next door - the Guildford.
Whatever you do - have a graet time and be sure to report back what you did.
Great place to wander
Lenny has it right
Although it certainly helps if the weather is kind to you. Best take a jumper, a coat, an umbrella and an extra jumper.
A few of my favourite places to wander.
So Mark...
How did your time in this fair city go? Which places did you get to?