Rue des Ecoles and surrounding area in 5e certainly used to have some good record shops. And nearby is the wonderful L'Ecurie bistro - full of character (inc. scary proprietress) and great food at v reasonable prices...

Montparnasse cemetery. Serge G's grave well worth a look (and it's not full of backpacked Jim Morrison fans running about)

It's worth having a wander along both banks of the Seine down by Notre Dame looking in the market stall jobbies (les bouquinistes) - lots of interesting stuff and I've seen yards of good vinyl there.

Are you a guitarist? Great guitar shops in Rue Douai, metro Pigalle.

Bars - Rue de Lappe - Bastille.

Sites- bloody everywhere, but make sure you go up the Arc de Triomphe.

Nice restaurant, Le Palet, Rue de Beaujolais. Small, funky, great French grub, not expensive, ask for table in the cellar - sous sol. Near the Grand Palais.

Not very rock'n'roll but authentically grotty. I stayed a week in an apartment next door that literally had a rotten toilet.* That is yer actual French.

By the way, I was impressed that the Morrison grave has a permanent police guard. If he wakes up are they going to nick him again?

[*it was like that when I got there]

tunnels full of bones, sound exciting? Actually they are well worth a visit, I have never seen anything quite like them. I have spent quite a lot of time in Paris and I've done a lot of the traditional sites but that's the one that sticks with me. Remarkable.

Also, there's supposed to be a quirky bookshop on the river called Shakespeare or something like that, supposed to be worth a visit but never found it myself.

Gallery wise I'd recommend Musee D'Orsay over the Louvre. Less hassle.

http://www.verygoodplus.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3086&highlight=diggers+gu...

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One of the Crocodisc CD shops on Rue des Halles has an excellent cheap selection of second hand obscure Francophone African CD's. Ask to see the boxes behind the counter.
Catacombs and sewers have guided tours I believe.
The Albert Kahn Museum and Gardens are of interest if your into colour photography/ethnography.
The passages couverts are stuffed with small interesting shops and with a bit of Googling and mapreading you can easily walk from one to the other.

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passages_couverts_de_Paris

Bon Voyage

Restaurant Chartier, Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, an astonishing survival off the street at the end of a picturesque courtyard, been going since the 1890s or thereabouts and has hardly changed at all in that time. Waiters with big moustaches and long aprons, who write the bill on the paper tablecloth, lots of table sharing with people who look like they've been coming since the war, and lots of yelling and frenetic dashing about. 'In this wonderful place, favourable for sweet nostalgy, fifty billions bellies have been satisfied since its creation.' says the website, exaggerating only a little.

Food is bog standard, perhaps not in itself worth the detour, but the experience is. Someone told me that the waiters buy the food from the restaurant and resell it to the customers, which may explain why you're not encouraged to linger. Get there early - there are queues.

Are good. I mean properly good. Not just good for buskers.

it's a nice mix of chic and shabby - lots of funky little bars, quirky shops and good value restaurants. A little BCBG these days but retains enough of its feel as the old Jewish quartier - and so is one of the few neighbourhoods that isn't dead or closed on Sundays in Paris. It also has the Place des Vosges which is just stunningly pretty and my favourite square in all of Paris.

If you are a carnivore, go eat at L'Entrecote in Porte Maillot. You can't book and basically all you can have is steak frites, a small side salad and vin rouge - but hey - what else do you need really? Nearby is the once fashionable Le Meridien hotel which has some pretty cool jazz/blues most nights. Afterwards, you can take a stroll through the Bois de Boulogne - and who knows who - or, frankly, what - you might meet - but you may find The Kinks "Lola" popping into your head. Tres rock n roll n'est-ce pas? Vachement

..like the Louvre, is free on Sundays and was a lot less busy than The Lourvre when we went on Sunday last year. Although now its re-opened it might be different.

The Virgin Megastore on Champs Elysses is an impressive reminder of how dominant that chain once used to be..hardly very French though!

Unless their policy has changed, it's only free one Sunday each month and although the Musée Picasso is stunning, I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "wee gallery" - there are something like twenty-six rooms crammed full of Picasso's work from his earliest days in Paris. If you get time before you go, Graham Robb's "Parisian's: An Adventure History of Paris" is wonderful, as is Eric Hazan's "The Invention of Paris: A History in Footsteps." For anyone interested in France generally, Robb's "The Discovery of France" is the best book I have ever read on the country. Meticulously researched, Robb cycled some 14,000 miles round France and spent four years researching the book.

Second the comments about Shakespeare and Co - you also get a lovely stamped logo in whatever you buy. There used to be a really good FNAC at Bastille - I've found CDs there I didn't know existed

Some good stuff there, appreciated.