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A Joycean Odyssey

eddie g's picture

I'm off to Dublin this weekend. Never been there before although, naturally, I've read the books, seen the films and heard the records. Any suggestions of good places to go? I shall be arm-in-arm with Lady G and are particularly interested in fine ( but not too pricey ) eateries and some good record/CD shops ( any left in Dublin? Some which specialize in Irish traditional music would be interesting ).

Thank you all.

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It'll be great.

I'm sure you will love it. We were there a couple of weeks back and had an excellent lunch in Peploes. It's on St Stephen's Green and thus booking is advised. Strong French influences, but high quality cooking and excellent service.

Can't help with the record/CD shops, I'm afraid - too many bottles in Peploes!

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Gavin Adam | 3 October 2011 - 5:27pm

Peploes is really nice.

Peploes is really nice. There's one of the last Tower Records still open on Wicklow Street. If the weather's fine consider taking the DART out to Dun Laoghaire or Dalkey. McDaids, Kehoes good popular pubs. Walk around the Squares, go find Iveagh Gardens. IMMA is good in Kilmainham. For stupid big shopping centre shopping like that Westfield in London, go to dundrum on the LUAS.

Just stay south of the Liffey and you'll be fine!

Www.imma.ie
Www.peploes.com
Www.towerrecords.ie
Www.dart.ie
www.dundrum.ie
Www.LUAS.ie

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DrJ | 3 October 2011 - 8:00pm

Balls

I wouldn't just dismiss the north side so flippantly, no matter who's cousin you are! You certainly need to watch your house a bit but's it's far from a complete write off.

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Pat Carty | 3 October 2011 - 8:47pm

I kid, I kid

The north side has Marino and Howth and loads of things.

Still, I'd turn left when I walk out of the Gresham. *runs for cover*

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DrJ | 3 October 2011 - 11:18pm

De Nort Side...

Now Now Dr. J, de nort side could be a Unesco cultural heritage site in comparison to Kerry *runs for cover*.

There is one place I'd heartily recommend if you find yourself kicking your heels with a hangover on a Sunday morning which is the Botanic Gardens in Glasnevin (10 minutes taxi from the city centre). It is beautiful, has a great cafe, does a fine breakfast and you get to blow off the cobwebs with a stroll around the gardens. I have been going there every other weekend for 10 years and never get tired of it.

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Vent My Spleen | 4 October 2011 - 8:40am

I

shall be celebrating my 40th birthday this weekend in various ale-houses around the town. Probably best to avoid.

1
Pat Carty | 3 October 2011 - 8:37pm

Thank you all

very much. Sounds great.

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eddie g | 3 October 2011 - 8:43pm

Try

Claddagh in Temple bar for a bit o' trad

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Pat Carty | 3 October 2011 - 8:50pm

Wow

that looks good. Thanks.

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eddie g | 3 October 2011 - 9:03pm

Food and Drink

I know these things are subjective but I think that La Maison is the best restaurant in Dublin right now. Fantastic food and it's literally next door to Grogans, one of the oldest pubs in the centre of town. Grogans is a mad old place - full of locals (but no need to be intimidated) and features all kinds of art on the wall (some good, most bad) from Irish artists. It's very close to Grafton Street (for shops), WIcklow Street (for Tower Records and Freebird Records) and Georges Street Arcade for odd bits and pieces.

www.lamaisonrestaurant.ie

If art's your thing, then the Irish Museum of Modern Art is definitely worth a look.

Celtic Note is also pretty good for trad records too. It's on Nassau Streeet, close to Trinity College.

If you need more info when you're there, let us know - we'll all see you right!

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John Connolly | 3 October 2011 - 9:13pm

Great, thanks.

We're staying at the Gresham and I'm told it's quite central.

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eddie g | 3 October 2011 - 9:17pm

On Saturday

Ireland play Wales in the quarter final of the rugby World Cup. I should think the mood in the city will change a bit depending on the result.

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Jed Clampett | 3 October 2011 - 9:23pm

Oh dear.

I'm Welsh. But I hate rugby. Any good football pubs around???

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eddie g | 3 October 2011 - 9:41pm

Check the result anyway

and if it went the right way I recommend this attire for the evening.

1
Jed Clampett | 4 October 2011 - 8:29am

Already ordered

in Medium.

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eddie g | 4 October 2011 - 8:34am

Oh dear indeed

The country will go rugger crazy if they win on Saturday. And I too hate rugby.

Plenty of good places to watch football but most of the international matches are on Friday night.

I concur with plenty of the above, though I am hopelessly out of touch on the restaurant front.

One little place I love is the Secret Book and Record Shop, look out for it down the side of another shop about 10 doors up from Tower.

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Monsignor_Bonehead | 3 October 2011 - 10:19pm

What's access to the city

What's access to the city centre like from Clontarf Castle, Irelanders? My girlfriend and I are staying there across New Year.

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JamesB | 4 October 2011 - 7:58am

Not that great...

..unless you're hiring a car.

Clontarf Castle is lovely though. So much that Mr Lynott penned a song about it.

http://tiny.cc/dyjt5

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Stuart Graham | 4 October 2011 - 8:08am

Access....

You are fine for access from there. OK, you won't walk to the ciy (about a 35 minute walk) but there is a bus, the 130, which goes every 10 minutes right outside the enterance (exact change required, probably 1.65 euro).

A taxi from town late night should be about 10 euro and thanks to deregulation of the taxi industry in Ireland a few years ago, the city is overrun with them at night so no problem there.

There are also a couple of nice boozers in the local. The Yacht on the seafront which also does excellent food and Harry Byrne's on the Howth Road (a bit of a walk).

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Vent My Spleen | 4 October 2011 - 8:32am

Near by...

If you are staying in the Gresham, might I recommend the 'Bon Crubeen' restaurant on Talbot street. It is just 5 mins walk from the Gresham from off O'Connell Street and a little gem.

I would follow that with a brisk 2 minute walk across the river to Mulligan's on Poolbeg street. It is as close to an untouched authentic Dublin bar as you will get in the city.

And (as I always recommend and especially as you are staying in the Gresham as it is literally 1 minute walk away opposite the Jury's Inn on Parnell street) a trip to Chapters. It has to be the biggest independent bookshop in the country and a treasure trove. It is huge, ecletic, and has as big a second hand section upstairs as that of new books. It also sells second hand DVDs and CDs.

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Vent My Spleen | 4 October 2011 - 8:25am

Kilmainham jail

If you can see this wonderful site without feeling Brit shame then turn round and go back home.

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Jorrox | 4 October 2011 - 10:39am

Perhaps Dubliners will scoff and pshaw at me but...

...any time I'm in Dublin I always make a point of getting a sensationally good chocolate milkshake at one of the branches of Eddie Rockets (a US retro style diner chain, unavailable in NI/UK) - there's one on Dame Street, near the Temple Bar area...

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Colin H | 4 October 2011 - 11:17am

A good chain

If you must have chain shops, this is as good as they come.

Is the franchise not available in YUK?

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Jorrox | 4 October 2011 - 3:45pm

None in N Ireland...

...as far as I'm aware, Jorro. I've only ever encountered them in Galway and Dublin...

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Colin H | 4 October 2011 - 4:27pm

Mmmmmm, eddie's

Eddie Rockets is a genuine guilty pleasure. They are very similar to the Ed's restaurants which are around London but as far as I know, they're not owned by the same people. Eddie's is much better than Ed's and the shakes are indeed great. Many a good night has ended up in Eddie's at half two having a burger and a shake including last Saturday's Dublin Massive Meet-up (well, three of us made it to 2.30)

http://www.eddierockets.ie/

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DrJ | 4 October 2011 - 6:44pm

If thirsty...

...I'd recommend these traditional Dublin pubs...

Kehoes(South Ann St.) - Just off Grafton St. Can get busy at night but it's a great place to drop in for a pint during the day because of its location.

Mulligan's (Poolbeg street) - Considered by many to have the best pint of Guinness in Dublin. Near O'Connell bridge.

O'Donoghues (Merrion Row) - If you've got an interest in traditional Irish music then you've got to check out this bar near St Stephen Green. They've got a live session every evening at around 9 and I think sometimes during the day at weekends. Was a regular hangout of The Dubliners and the Christy Moore etc. Not to be confused with the O'Donoghues on Suffolk Street which robbed its name and copied its front to trick tourists.

Grogans (South William St) - Worth checking out also if you fancy a toasted sandwich with your pint. Attracts interesting literary/arty types.

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kmagoo | 4 October 2011 - 2:39pm

Be told by a local

It may just be me, but everytime I have been in Dublin being a typically anti-social Brit and reading the newspaper, the person sitting next to me has introduced themselves, asked what I was doing, and made really helpful suggestions. The best of which was "you don't want to be drinking in this pub, it's terrible. There's a much better one round the corner. Come with me.". And it was much better (though there was nothing wrong with the one we were in).

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paulwright | 4 October 2011 - 3:32pm

Hire a car,

and drive to Galway.

*heads for the hills at a rate of knots*

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Vulpes Vulpes | 4 October 2011 - 5:39pm
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